Monday, June 20, 2011

One-Sided African Romances

Hey my fellow muzungu women! Are you feeling low on self esteem? I have a suggestion for you: come to Uganda where all the boys will love you. Especially if you happen to have blonde hair and blue eyes. Apparently I am the most charming thing this country has seen forever. Which leads us to the topic of today’s blog: all the Ugandan men who have fallen in love with Stefanie. Please note: this is not a comprehensive list, this is only the ones who have stories attached to them.

Malik: Malik works with us at the clinic. He is freaking adorable because he is so quiet and shy. Plus he is Muslim and I like that I am now friends with a Muslim. Now, if any crazy radical racist people try to get in an argument with me about Islamic people being terrorists, I can say “I have friends that practice Islam and they are intelligent, kind, reasonable people who love peace and stuff.” One day Mark was talking to him on the phone and at the end of the conversation Malik said, “tell the girls hello… especially Stefanie.” Hahahahahaha I have no idea where that came from, but I was flattered. I think it’s because he is from Kenya and therefore speaks Swahili and one day I sang a song to him in Swahili that I learned in 9th grade. Apparently it was very impressive because he has since offered to buy me things and constantly talks about coming to visit me in America. He also texts me all the time to ask how I am doing, which is awesomely awkward considering the fact that we all share a phone.

Davis: Davis is the best friend of Josh who works the front desk at Keba Inn. I met Davis for the first time when I went clubbing on Wednesday, but apparently I make a good first impression because he was deeply in love with me by the end of the night. He told me so several times. I’m pretty sure he was sober too. At least, I hope he was because I was able to use my womanly charm to get him to drive us home so I didn’t have to pay for a taxi. I first made him take all the drunk driving tests and he swore on his love for me that he had not consumed a drop of alcohol all night. I had to keep reminding him that I had a boyfriend and therefore was not going to kiss him, but other than that he was a good guy. In order to try to entice me to change my mind about the kissing situation, he kept telling me about his super awesome job in the Ugandan government. I’m pretty sure a lot of it was lies to impress me (like when, for example, he said that he could set up a time for me to meet the president) but I fully intend on using him to set up some tour of the Ugandan Parliament or something.

Derick: I met Derick at a wedding. We spoke for literally 10 minutes until he invited me home to meet his family. FYI, meeting the family is a big deal in Uganda. He is going to medical school in Canada, and intends to go to Disneyland with me at some point. Yeah, ok. However, there is something very attractive about Derick, that being that he has a car. Now, those of you who know me (which is hopefully all of you. If not, get off my blog) know that I am not a car person AT ALL, but after two months of riding on taxis, I am willing to be friends with ANYONE who is willing to drive me around. I am currently working on him to drive me to the equator this weekend. I will let you know how that goes.

Habib: This is not his real name, he just owns the store called The Habib Store, so we call him Habib. At the Habib store, water costs 1500 shillings. Unless you happen to be a blonde muzungu, in which case water is only 1000 shillings. Everyone in the group has me buy water for them.

Akim: This is the boy whose lap I sat on at the soccer (football) game. He immediately asked me for my phone number (as everyone does). Usually I tell them I don’t have a phone (almost true) but that day he was so nice to me that I didn’t want to crush his heart immediately. So instead I tried to give him the number of the phone that Tyler had just lost. Unfortunately I am an idiot and actually gave him the number to my phone. He called me approximately 70 times in the next three days.

The list could go on. Guys stop me regularly asking to take a picture with me and I always oblige. It’s like having my own little paparazzi and I have to enjoy it while it lasts. When I speak luganda, people lose their minds. It’s like having a blonde girl speak Luganda is the most amazing thing that has ever happened. I have become the one in the group that always has to ask people questions or something because chances are I will get a better answer than anyone else in the group.
Seriously, I am not trying anything special here. Quite the opposite actually. My hair is in DESPERATE need of a cut and color and I haven’t seen a flat iron in months. But, for whatever reason, the African men just love the muzungus. I invite all girls everywhere to test out my experience and see for yourself. It really is quite amusing.

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Mormon Hangover (like the kind that comes even though you have never taseted alcohol in your life)

Yesterday was Ladies Night at a local dance club here, meaning ladies got in free. Karen and I danced until 3am. Now I want to die.

Sunday, June 12, 2011

Stefanie on Safari! (I [Stefanie] have taken over posting and so the titles will no longer be lame dates. Though I am eternally greatful to Niccole for keeping the blog going up until this point)


Hello world! It’s been awhile, but I have a good excuse. This weekend I went on a safari! Another item crossed of my non-existent bucket list. It was so amazing! I will tell you something true: animals in the wild are far superior to animals in the zoo.
Because Uganda had yet another national holiday on Thursday (honestly, it’s amazing anything gets done in this country at all. Oh, right. It doesn’t) we left for the safari on Wednesday night after work. Although it wasn’t as scary as the last time we took a taxi in the dark (See: Jinja trip) it was still pretty intense. Uganda doesn’t really use addresses or anything, so we weren’t really sure where we were going. The travel company gave us “directions” but they said things like “Take the second left after the old soap factory.” Yeah, ok. It was especially interesting in the dark, but we figured it out. That night we stayed in a hostel type thing in Kampala. It was an interesting experience, but I think I have reached my hostel quota for my life. There were about 30 people sharing the same bathroom, so I was forced to wake up at 4:30 am in order to accomplish my necessary tasks. But I did love the vibe. It was totally hippie, with incense and dreadlocks and the whole shebang. Plus, hippies spend less time in the bathroom, so that was good.
The next morning we boarded a bus to Murchison Falls, which is where our safari was. It was quite a trip (about 3 hours) but it wasn’t too bad. We had booked the upgrade safari, which meant that there were fewer of us and we got to ride in a nice van rather than a big bus or taxi. It was only our group and this adorable 77 year old couple from Yorkshire (or yoke shuh, as they called it) who has been coming to Africa for the past 10 years building wells and teaching classes and stuff. They were awesome and completely the stereotypical old British couple, except they were totally spry and lively. Plus, at the end of the trip they totally treated us all to lunch, so I am their biggest fan.
The first stop we took when we finally got to Murchison was rhinoceros tracking. Rhinoceros is an impossible word to spell.  Rhino is a much more manageable alternative.  Apparently rhinos are supposed to be native to Uganda, but became extinct in the eighties due to poaching. (Side note: after this trip and seeing all of the endangered wildlife, I hate poachers. I have very violent feeling of hatred towards them, almost like unto the feelings of hatred I have for racists and child abusers. I am just about to send in my application to PETA. Just kidding dad. Mostly.) To help build the rhino population back up, the reserve brought in about 5 rhinos from Kenya and the US. Happily, they have started reproducing. This was very recently, but they are already up to like 15 rhinos.  They very first one born had a Kenyan father and an American mother, so they called him Obama. Hahahahahahaha When the population reaches a certain point, they are going to release them back into the wild, though the reserve seemed pretty wild to me. After this brief introduction, we went hiking through the grassland to see the rhinos. We literally walked right through their home. It was amazing! There was not a single thing in between as and these gigantic animals except about 10 meters of grassland. I’m not sure it was completely safe, but it was incredible. At one point, we were watching the alpha male and he started coming towards us. Our guide started yelling at us to “Get back! Get back!” but luckily the rhino decided it was uninterested. It never started charging or anything, but it could have and the guide was worried it would. Apparently if it had charged, the only thing we could have done was climbed a tree and hoped the tree wasn’t thorny. Crazy, right? One of the mama rhinos we saw had a young rhino with her, so cute! And huge.
We spent that night at the safari company’s campsite in the national park. The campsite was nice. We slept in tents, but they had cots set up so we weren’t sleeping on the ground. It was awesome because there were just baboons and wart hogs walking through the camp, ain’t no thang. At one point I saw a couple baboons grab the cushions off some wicker lounge chairs and run off with them into the forest. I don’t know what they planned to do with the cushions, but it was hilarious.
We woke up EARLY the next morning for the true safari part of the adventure. Our driver was awesome and had this desperate urge to be better than all of the other safari groups (which I appreciate) so he made us get up before everyone else and would always drive crazy fast and cut the other vans off so that we could be at the front of the line. It was awesome. Don’t worry, I totally tipped him at the end of the trip. The van we rode in had an extendable top so we could climb out and ride on top. It was amazing. I don’t even have words to adequately describe it. But fear not, there are many many MANY pictures. We saw all of the animals I could ever hope to see and they were amazingly close to the vehicle. Tons of antelope, gazelles, warthogs (baby warthogs are adorable), water buffalo (don’t worry family, I totally sang), hippos, crocodiles, giraffes, HUGE elephants, and lions! The lioness even had a cub and they were hunting! SO CUTE. Except when the thing died, then it wasn’t cute. We were worried because it took us awhile to see a male lion. Then one of the other groups told us that there was a lion in the bush a bit off the path. They had seen it go in there, but we had just missed it. But did our driver let that stop him? Oh no he didn’t. He drove off the path right into the bush so that we could see the lion. We were literally a few feet away from him, with only van windows between us. It was so cool! He looked right at me. 
We went back to camp for lunch (a hamburger, yay! I love when these touristy places cater to my American appetite) and then went on the Nile boat ride. It was definitely not like the last time we rode on the Nile, it was much more smooth. But just as beautiful. There were hippos and crocodiles EVERYWHERE. It was awesome. Hippos are hilarious and awesome. Also, baby hippos are so cute. After the boat ride most of the people just headed back, but because we were on the super deluxe safari we got to hike to the top of the falls. Oh man, it was beautiful. Again, there will be pictures when I get home. When the boat first dropped us off there was no guide. The boat drivers were like, “oh well, just get started. It’s not hard to find your path.” Oh, ok. It was seriously the most Indiana Jones-like experience of my life. We were by ourselves hacking through a jungle that we knew very well was inhabited by animals. I was pretty sure we were going to discover some ancient civilization at some point. We didn’t, but we did find the guide eventually. It was an awesome hike and the falls were beautiful. I wished you were there the whole time dad, cause you would have loved it. There are tons of pictures, don’t worry.
Our driver was at the top of the falls to pick us up after, which was good because I don’t think I could have hiked down. It wasn’t a super difficult hike at all, but I am used to hiking in Utah with 3% humidity. Hiking in Uganda is quite a bit different. At the risk of entering the land of TMI, I will tell you that I was NASTY nasty sweaty. We all were. We showered immediately after coming home and then were so exhausted that we went to bed straight after dinner (which was phenomenal vegetarian pasta. There is serious love in my heart for tourist food).
The next morning we were forced by our driver to be on the bus at 6:15. I know that you mow girls will mock me for my weak-sauce morning attitude, but I have not had to be anywhere by 6:15 in a LONG time. We were headed to chimp tracking and I literally slept the whole way.
Chimp tracking was my absolute favorite part of the trip. Like the rhino tracking, the guides just take you straight into the jungle to observe the chimps in their natural habitat. Oh man, it was incredible. They were just hanging out in the trees above us eating breakfast and playing around. There were at least 30 chimps around us, including babies. Baby chimps were the cutest thing I have ever seen in my entire life. They just cling to their mum’s tummy for dear life while the mum swings about eating food. The guides for chimp tracking are awesome. They have been doing it for so long that they recognize each monkey on sight as well as the sound of each monkey’s call. Plus, they know what each call means. It’s like they can speak monkey! After standing for about an hour watching the monkey’s in the trees (which was awesome) a distress call came from the other side of the jungle, so the big male monkeys went to check it out and see what was up. Chimps eat in the trees, but apparently they travel on land, because they got on the ground and walked right past us. We followed one of them for awhile. It was amazing! We were just walking along behind him. He kept looking behind at us, but the guide said that he is the friendliest chimp and he didn’t run away or get scared or anything. It was almost like he was looking behind to make sure we could keep up. It was completely amazing.
After the chimp tracking we headed back to Kampala, which is always a disappointment after being in a beautiful place for awhile. Kampala is so dirty, plus poor Karen’s wallet got stolen. I felt really bad for her, but I was impressed and a bit shocked by her use of the English language. Homegirl is a talented swearer, and you all know that it would take a lot to impress me and even more to shock me. She got all of her cards cancelled and everything and luckily she wasn’t carrying a ton of cash, having spent most of it on the trip. But it still sucks.
I wish I could explain everything better, but this is really a trip that can only be adequately described through pictures. The internet is too crappy for me to post any, plus most of the good ones are on other people’s cameras (I really should have invested in a good camera for this trip, the one I have is a tiny bit crappy) but when I get home we will have an epic slideshow where I force you all to relive my triumphs. Get excited.

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Yesterday was church, obviously. Every time  I go to this church I am so impressed by the quality of the people here. They are so intelligent. Even though most have been members for a very short time, they quote the Book of Mormon like it's their job. It makes me feel weak, but in the good way where I am inspired to read the Book of Mormon more. We had our first "choir practice" yesterday. I put it in quotes because it was not like the usual choir practice. We aren't really practicing for anything specific, they just like to sing. And they had a keyboard!!! I was incredibly excited. Unfortunately, I am not very good at playing the piano, but I plunked through it and the ward members sang with enough spirit to make up for my crappy playing. It was awesome because even though none of them read music at all, they all picked up on their parts pretty quickly. In my (vast) experience as choir director, if you have people come who don't read music, they are mostly a spot filler because it is so hard for them to learn their parts, but that wasn't the case here at all. i think they just have a natural talent for music. Another awesome thing is how many people came. All five other times I was choir director, it was like pulling teeth getting people to come. I would have to make fabulous treats, announce it personally in every class, go to peoples houses and beg them to come, and still I would be lucky if I got two people on each part. Here, they forgot to announce it until Relief Society and Priesthood and yet half the ward showed up. Afterward, everyone come up to me and thanked me for helping them. It was so sweet! Plus, their voices are beautiful.
Love you all and miss you!
Love,
Stefanie

June 4

Thank you mum for the lovely email! I especially loved the last line:
"We miss you so much. Get a job, you bum." Hahahaha just kidding. When
you say "we" are flying to Denver, do you mean all of us or just you
and dad. Also, happy birthday Jacob! I can't believe my little brother
is so big!
Well, it has been an extremely eventful weekend! Friday was a public
holiday (Martyr's day) so we didn't have work. But we didn't get to
sleep in because Mark is a maniac. He got it into his head that it
would be a good idea to run to the beach. I sweetly declined because
the trip has a few big hills and Mark and Karen are marathon runners,
while Savanah is an intense soccer player. I like to run just fine,
but slowly and by myself with awesome music. But apparently it just
wouldn't be the same if I didn't come and they really wanted me there
blah blah blah. So I went. Big mistake. By the time we got to the lake
I wanted to die and we still had to come back. I made it, but I
promise here and now with all of you as my witnesses that I will never
NEVER go running with Mark Eliason again. When we got back, we did
P90X. Because that is just how hardcore we are. I had a very difficult
time walking yesterday.
After the workout from hell, we went to the beach, which was so fun!
You know how my very favorite thing in the whole world is laying in
the sand, so I had a very nice time. Plus, Malik, one of the interns,
came and hung out with us, so that was so super fun. I did get a
little burned though. It was cloudy, so I didn't realize it would
happen, but I am just not used to the malaria sensative skin and the
direct equator sunlight. My burn from the beach is actually not bad at
all, but when we were running it was really sunny. There are small
strips on my shoulders from where the tank top I was running in is
different than my swimming suit so they were very white and are now
purple. Yet another reason why that run was terrible.
Yesterday we went to Kampala for the day. The Ugandan National
football team was playing and it was CRAZY! People were already
partying in the streets. Mum, you would have hated it because it was
really loud and there were TONS of people everywhere, but I LOVED it.
It was such a fun atmosphere. We really wantedto go to the game, and
after a bit of a treasure hunt, we got tickets! Yay! We started out
our day by shopping for souvenirs, which was very successful.  We all
bought jerseys for the game, we looked so cute. And let me tell you,
we were a SENSATION. 4 muzungus walking around on game day wearing
Uganda National colors, people were absolutely BESIDE themselves. It
was fun. It's going to be sad going back to America where I am just a
normal person. Then, Sam wanted to take us to his grandmother's house
for lunch. Well, as we got on a taxi to head to granny's Sam informs
us that she lives 45 mins away. Um, HELLO. It was currently 1:00 and
we planned on being at the stadium at 2:00. We were very pissed, but
at that point there was nothing we could do. So we ate the fastest
lunch of our lives at granny's and headed to the stadium.
There is no way in a million years I could adequately describe the
experience of the football game. Just imagine it as crazy as you
possibly can and then realize that it is probably much crazier than
that. Even though we went white water rafting and everything, this was
probably the most dangerous thing we have experienced so far. And it
was AWESOME. Luckily, my pushing through crowds skills that I have
honed at concerts came in very handy. Unfortunately, some members of
my group weren't nearly as adept as I am, so by the time we finally
got in, the stands were completely full. I'm fairly certain that twice
as many tickets were sold than people who would actually fit in the
stadium. But fitting in the stadium is a crazy American idea. This is
Uganda. We don't have to fit in the stadium, we just have to get in!
Going up the stairs into the stadium was an absolute mosh pit. Again,
the only thing that kept me upright was my awesome concert skills. But
even I couldn't see anyway we were going to get through the crowd to
get into the seats. Then, people started climbing the walls and
pulling themselves up the handrails. "Oh no, there is no WAY I am
going to do that." said my brain. Then, the next second I see Sam
heading up the hand rail. Ok, I guess that's how I'm getting into the
game. Honestly I didn't even think about it, because if I did I'm
pretty sure there is no way I would have done it, but suddenly I am
climbing up the stadium wall, shimmying up the handrail, teetering
about 50 feet in the air, with people grabbing at me trying to get up
themselves. Don't worry, Mark got some awesome pictures. When we got
up to where Mark and Sam were, there was literally not a single empty
seat. Oh, but no worries, there were plenty of African men willing to
let the beautiful muzungu girls sit on their laps. Luckily I was able
to flirt my way into a seat (don't be too impressed, it is not hard to
get what you want in Africa when you are a pretty muzungu), but
Savanah spent the whole game on someone's lap. Hahahaha Or at least
she spent any part of the game where we were seated on someone's lap,
which honestly wasn't much. These fans would send any other sports
fans crying for their mothers. I don't know how familiar you all are
with a vuvuzela, but I assure you that I am more familiar. There were
thousands of them, and I swear they were all directed at my head. They
blow them when something they like happens, they blow them when they
are frustrated, they blow them to intimidate the other team, they blow
them to try to get the muzungu's attention. It was crazy. Every time
Uganda scored a goal, things would get even more crazy (which I didn't
think was possible). People threw everything they possibly could
(except the vuvuzelas of course) into the air and debris would be
raining from the sky. There was so much water bottle throwing that I
got completely soaked every time. Like, honestly, it looked like I had
been caught in a rainstorm. Plus, everyone wanted to hug the muzungus,
so we were mobbed. I loved every second of it. However, it is
definitely a once in a lifetime experience. I never need to go to a
football game in a third world country again. Actually, scratch that.
It apparently wasn't just the third wold aspect that made it crazy,
because Mark has been to many football games in South America and he
said they are absolutely tame compared to what we went through. So, I
never need to go to a football game in Africa again. But wow, I am so
glad we did it yesterday. And honestly, even though I was mad at Sam
for not adequately planning our trip to his grandmother's, if we
hadn't gone then we would have gotten to the stadium on time and
probably wouldn't have had to scale the 50 foot wall in order to get
seats, and that was a once in a lifetime experience all in itself.
When we finally got home I was so exhausted that I fell right in bed
and slept for years.
If I keep having amazing weekends like this, I am never going to want
to come home! NExt weekend is our safari, so I think the tradition
will continue.
Love you all!
Stefanie


 Oh, PS Uganda totally won. We gooooooooooooooo we go! Uganda cranes we
go! (that is their chant. It is actually very catchy and if I never
hear it again it will be too soon).

Friday, June 3, 2011

June 3

Warning: this email is REALLY LONG. Like, 6 pages in a word document.
       Our trip to Jinja began bright and early Saturday morning. Or should
I say dark and early because it was 4:45 am and the sun wasn’t even
considering being up yet. We needed a ride to Kampala, so Jeffrey from
our ward offered to set one up for us. The ride was supposed to arrive
at Keba Inn at 5:00, but of course everything here runs on Uganda
time. 5:00, 5:10, 5:20. 5:30 nothing. We’re calling Jeffrey
frantically, but to no avail. Finally at 5:40 a car rolled up and
Jeffrey got out. It’s a good thing he was there because there is no
way I would have gotten in that sketch “taxi” otherwise. The ride was
straight up the taxi ride from hell, provided that hell smells like
exhaust and has born again Christian music blaring at eardrum scarring
decibels.  I swear the driver took us the wrong way down one way roads
several times. He had no idea where we were going and kept stopping at
totally sketch locations to ask directions from potential murderers.
Also, I think the back tire was falling off. That’s what it sounded
and felt like anyway. I don’t know whether to attribute this to the
music or the near death experience, but some of the most fervent
prayers of my entire life took place in the back of that vehicle.
       Miracle of miracle (prayer works) we made it to where we were
supposed to meet the bus. As we were leaving, we thanked the man for
the ride (even though we paid him 45,000 shilling. What a rip off). We
also thanked him (ironically) for the music. “Oh, you’re welcome,” he
said, “I love Jesus. I’ve been saved.” Awesome dude.
       Soon the bus came to pick us up and bring us to Jinja. Holy cow, I
have never seen so many muzungus in my entire life. Ok, so that’s not
true (I live in Provo for heaven’s sake) but after a month in Africa,
it is strange to be around white people again. Though most of them
were European, so they were still culturally different. The guy I sat
next to on the bus is a journalist from Luxumborg. He had just helped
organize this giant international marathon in Tanzania, so he was
really interesting to talk to. He had been travelling around and had
interesting information, like that fact that the most civilized
country in this region is probably Rwanda. Even though most people
just associate them with the terrible genocide that happened recently,
the country has really bounced back and are the most structured and
organized. Also, I should be glad that I am not staying in Congo,
where the only way they could travel without being attacked or force
to pay bribes was by dressing up as priests.
       When we arrived at the river rafting headquarters, it was awesome
because it seemed like the very stereotypical picture of an
outdoors/adventure touristy place. There was the older granola type
lady running things, the Rastafarian/hippie man with the fro behind
the desk, and the absurdly tan and ripped young men running around
doing all the hard work in order to show off their muscles. From there
we got on trucks that transported us to the river. On the trucks we
sat next to two guys from Oregon named Casey and Jesse. We told them
we were studying at BYU and they told us that they work for the state
department and are stationed at the US embassy in Sudan. How cool is
that? They were pretty awesome and I am jealous of their jobs. At one
point Jesse got distracted and was talking to somebody else. I was
asking Casey about his job and how he got into it, etc. He started
talking about his love for adventure and how he wants to live an
extraordinary life. He said something about not being interested in
the cookie cutter life in a suburb with a picket fence and 2.5 kids,
which was the point Jesse turned back and was like “What’s going on
here? You just met and are already planning how many kids you are
going to have?” I was like, “Oh, you know BYU girls, we move fast.”
Which was apparently the exact right thing to say, like I was
acknowledging the elephant in the room that was symbolic of the fact
that we are Mormons. They both laughed a lot and we had a good
discussion about the church and Mormon culture and the differences
between the two. They have Mormon friends, and it was strangely
awesome to make friends on this trip with people who recognize our
religion. Even though it didn’t really effect our interactions much,
it was just nice to have people who understood what we are like. That
sounds weird, but just trust me. Plus, they were both expert white
water rafters, so they gave us information and advice that
simultaneously scared me more and helped me feel better at the same
time (i.e. there is not way you won’t flip over, but if you do this
and this and such, you won’t die).
       We then arrived at the river, where we stripped down and left
everything but our swimsuits and sunscreen in the trucks. E even left
our shoes. IT was weird because that was the first time the soles of
my feet have touched the ground in a month. I even wear shoes in the
shower. The Nile was beautiful, plus there were lots and lots of
extremely ripped men walking around adding to the aesthetics. The
in-charge granola lady gave us a (very) brief safety lesson and then
ordered us to get into the rafts. It all seemed very abrupt. I was not
prepared to get in the raft yet.  But we did. We were very lucky
because they made us break into groups of seven, which is an awkward
number and people kept trying to get us to break up and join their
group. But we held strong and were able to get in all together.
       Our guide’s name was Peter and he was HILARIOUS. The very first thing
he said to us was “Hello, I’m Peter. Why did you guys pick the sh*t
boat?” Hahahahah yeah Peter, thanks for inspiring confidence.
Throughout the whole trip, every noun was proceeded by the adjective
sh*t. Sh*t boat, sh*t   pump, sh*t safety rope etc. It was extremely
hilarious. We asked him how long he has been doing this and he was
like “this is my first time, but don’t worry, I’ve watched the video
many times.” He totally threw me at first because sarcasm is NOT
prevalent in this culture. He called sunscreen anti-n*igger cream, and
though that is probably my least favorite word of all, it was
strangely endearing when Peter said it. Maybe I have a different
standard because he is black. I am probably reverse racist. He told us
the best story about when he was leading a raft full of Japanese
people. None of them spoke English at all, so they couldn’t understand
him when he shouted instructions at them. There were two English boys
in the front, so they were able to communicate to the Japanese that
they just needed to do exactly what the English boys were doing. This
worked well until they went through a particularly wild raid and the
English boys were thrown out. When the Japanese saw that the boys were
gone, they jumped out of the raft. HAHAHAHAHHAa.
       Before we started rafting, Peter gave us more instruction, which was
basically simulating death-like situations and practicing not dying.
Like, he flipped the raft over and we had to practice not getting
stuck underneath. Then we had to practice getting back on the raft.
Even with all my P90X, I couldn’t pull myself in, but I didn’t feel
bad because the other girls couldn’t either. But no worries, Peter was
more than willing to pull us in with his bare hands. At one point, he
pulled me and Karen in at the same time, one in each arm. Buff. Plus,
as an added bonus, he rewarded us each with a smack on the bum.
Though, apparently he found our bums unimpressive. In his tribe,
apparently the price of a woman’s dowry is determined by the size of
her bum. A girl with a really nice bum would be worth several cows.
We, according to Peter, would each be worth a measly half a chicken.
Hahahahaha
       After not nearly enough not-dying practice to make me feel
comfortable, Peter took us down the first rapid. He would yell
“forward!” and we would paddle forward (obviously). He would yell
“harder!” and we would paddle as hard as we could. Then, he would yell
“get down!” as the raids got too wild and we would crouch down, hold
onto our paddles and the rope and pray for deliverance. The whole
time, Savanah and I screamed like little girls, but man it was
exhilarating! And e didn’t die. Always a bonus.
       When we signed up for this trip, I was really scared because I
thought we would just be going through killer rapids all the time. Not
so. There were about 8 instances of killer rapids. Besides that, much
of our time was sent floating along the Nile looking at the
breathtaking scenery. Because we spent so much time floating, we were
lucky that the people in our raft were so awesome. Besides us and
Peter, there was Anneik and John form Holland and Ram from Israel.
Anneik and John were in no way the snooty European types that some
people on this trip were, but were really nice and witty. They
appreciated our humor, which made me appreciate them. Ram was a Buffy
fan! What are the odds, right? I can officially say that I have had a
lively Spike vs. Angel debate with a Hebrew man form Israel while
floating down the Nile in a raft. It was kind of a surreal experience.
Often times when we were floating along, the supply boat would float
by with awesome snacks like crackers or pineapple. I imagine that if I
designed heaven, it would look a lot like that experience” floating on
a beautiful river with fabulous sunshine, great company, and an
attractive person giving you the pieces of the most delicious
pineapple in the world.
       There was a point where the rapids got too bad and we got out and
walked past it, which I appreciated. Directly after that was a rapid
called “the bad Place.” Sounds ominous, right? Apparently, if you go
in the bad place, you have a 99% chance of getting thrown out of your
raft. If you go to the right, there is a 99% chance of staying
upright. If you go left, your chances are 50/50. My group wanted to go
through the bad place, so I was peer pressured into agreeing. Peter,
however, had other plans. He was all like “Yeah, sure, the bad place,
ok.” But then totally took us to the right. Hahahaha. The men in the
group were all disgruntled, but as it turns out, Peter was totally
right. Casey and Jesse’s raft went through the bad place and they told
us about it later. They almost died. Jesse was the only one who stayed
on the raft, everyone else was thrown. One guy named Eric (remember
him, he comes up later) tried to hold on to the raft, and the current
was so strong that it pulled his shoulder out of the socket. Their
raft was pulled apart by the current and the riders were under water
for a very long time. Yeah, I’m glad we avoided that.
       Although we didn’t go through the bad place, we did tip over twice.
The first time was no big deal. It was a little scary, but I just help
tight to the raft and kind of rode the rapid until Peter was able to
get the raft upright and pull us in (with the obligatory bum slap).
The 2nd time we tipped over was a little more dramatic. Tipping was
fine, I held on and didn’t get far from the raft. I was happily
bobbing along, but Karen next to me was swearing a little more
colorfully than usual. I was like, “calm down girl, we already fell
out, the worst is over.” But it turns out she could see something I
couldn’t because all of a sudden Peter was yelling “Get your legs up!”
and we were slammed by the rapids into huge, sharp rocks. Ow. I’ll
tell you what, ow. Luckily, we were mostly fine. That seems like
something that could kill you, but I only had a few cuts on my knee
and foot that weren’t too deep and a pretty good bruise on my hip.
John was the worst, bleeding all over the place, but even he wasn’t
too bad. He could still paddle and stuff. It was pretty hard core. But
I can now say “I have bled in the Nile” whenever I am playing two
truths and a lie.
       When we went through the last rapid, we all stayed in except Peter,
who mysteriously disappeared. There were other rafts and islands
around, so we figured e just went to one of those, plus it was a
straight shot to the end, so we weren’t too worried. We just paddled
lazily along, laughing and singing. Savanah made up a very clever song
that goes like this:
Row row row your raft
Gently down the Nile
Scarily scarily scarily scarily
watch for crocodiles!
So we were singing that and having a good old time. Suddenly, like the
freaking creature form the black Lagoon, Peter rises out of nowhere
and grabs me, pulling me into the river. Hahahaha I guessI should have
seen that coming. I was angry, but it was mostly that fake anger that
people put forth in am effprt to maintain their dignity. I said,
“Peter! You could have drown me! I guess we have a sh*t guide to go
with the sh*t boat!” which I though was pretty clever. Then I swam
over and dunked him, but mostly he laughed. So much for my dignity.
       That was the end of the rafting, which was unfortunate, but it was
hard to be sad because that meant it was time for a giant barbeque!
Wahoo! There were kabobs (my fav!) and unlimited soda (foreshadowing).
Basically we just chilled and ate our hearts out and reveled in the
fact that we just completed something so amazing! And we looked at our
sunburns, which were pretty magnificent. Malaria medication + the
equator’s direct sunlight= bad sunburns.
       The bus ride to the river camp was about 40 mins long. About half way
there, all of the soda came back to haunt us. Me and Karen and Savanah
had to pee SO BAD. Luckily, most of the other people on the bus had
even more to drink than we did (mostly beer) and had to pee too. So
the bus pulled over by a cornfield and we all ran in, strategically
lacing ourselves so that we didn’t see any stranger bums or pee on
anyone else’s shoes. How many of you can say that you peed with a
bunch of drunk Europeans in a cornfield on the side of a road in
Africa? Yeah, that’s what I thought.
       Eventually we got to the campsite and got all set up. We were
sleeping in a dorm instead of a tent, thank goodness. There was a bar
where everyone was hanging out and binge drinking while we waited for
the raft people to show the video of the day. They were watching
Rugby, which was actually pretty fun to watch. Savanah loves rugby and
tried to explain it to me. Mostly I didn’t understand totally, but it
sounds fun. We have plans to go to rugby games at BYU this year.
       It was super fun just chilling and talking to everyone and helping
Savanah achieve her goal of kissing the hottest raft guide (a goal she
quickly abandoned as his attractiveness decreased inversely with his
blood alcohol level). A bunch of our new friends came up to talk to
us, including Eric. Eric is a total Rastafarian free loving easy going
hippie, who drinks like a sailor. It is an interesting paradox because
apparently his wife works for the state department. That is a woman I
would like to meet, because there is some serious contradiction going
on there. Eric was telling Mark and I the incredibly interesting story
of his life (stories available upon request, this email is getting too
long). AT one point he suggested that we never get addicted to
cocaine. I laughed and told him that I never would try cocaine. He was
skeptical because apparently I might need it someday when I am totally
drunk and absolutely have to drive somewhere. Cocaine is (apparently)
the only way to sober up quickly enough. Oh, I told him, I don’t drink
either. Well. You would have thought from his reaction that I had
suddenly come up with the solution to world hunger, world peace, and
high gas prices all at the same time. This was obviously the most
amazing thing he had ever heard. He went on for a good ten minutes
about how I am “golden” and “a genius” and how I would save myself so
much trouble in m life. All while he was very very drunk. I love drunk
people sometimes.
       After the movie, Casey and Jesse came up to us and uttered two of my
most favorite words: dance party. The plan: they would move all the
tables and we would use our feminine charms to manipulate the bar
tender to play dance music, a plan I excelled at, of course. The silly
Europeans were busy watching the football (soccer) game, but the
Americas and the Africans were seriously movin and groovin. There is
something magical about impromptu dance parties anyway, but hen they
take place in Africa, they are even better. Plus, I can now claim that
I have been bought a drink in a bar because Casey bought us all
waters. And, ok, I realize that being bought a water in a bar is a lot
less glam than being bought a martini in a bar, but I can actually
drink the water. Plus, I thought it was sweet that he was all
respectful of our religion and stuff. After the soccer (football)
game, the DJ played a celebratory “Alejandro” by Lady Gaga (Barcelona
won) and even the Europeans joined in.
       The next morning we woke up super early When the alarm went off, my
body was like “what do you think you are doing? You get back in bed
and sleep off your Mormon hangover!” but my mind said “you will
probably never have a chance to see the sun rise over the Nile again.
Stop being a lazy arse.” My min won an we all went and sat on a little
rock island and watched the sun come up. I wish I was a talented
writer and could adequately describe to you how it looked without
sounding trite, but it was breath taking. Soon the water was being let
out of the dam (or something) so the river level started to rise and
we had to leave before our little rock island was covered, so we went
to the little beach and meditated for awhile. I felt like an Egyptian
goddess or something. What an awesome way to start your Sabbath!
`To get home, we had to catch a bus back from the river rafting
offices. Unfortunately, cam checkout was at 11 am and the bus didn’t
come until 3. On the bright side, when we got to the rafting place, we
met some more awesome friends, Nash and Jimmy, who were both very
funny. They said they had seen us dancing the other night and asked
why we weren’t staying for the “booze cruise” that night like most of
the other rafters. We explained that we had to get back to work, plus
that we don’t drink. That totally surprised them because, as jimmy
said, “when I saw you dancing last night, I thought you were totally
smashed.” Hahahahaha
       We were soon hungry and left to find somewhere to buy food. We had
earlier decided against going to church because when we looked it up
on Mormon.org it was like 30 miles away and we had no way to get
there. But the, as we were wandering around, we cam across a very
familiar looking building. A Mormon chapel! It was only like half a
mile away from where we were staying. What the heck Mormon.org?
someone needs to update that. We had missed church, but there was a
baptism going on, so we went for that. We may have missed renewing our
baptismal covenants, but at least we were able to see someone making
theirs. It was a family, which was cool. Also, I know the church is
true everywhere, but I really wish we went to this branch instead of
the Entebbe branch. This church was so luxurious. They had fans, and
tile floors and artwork! Still no pianos though.
       After the baptism we were still hungry and had not found food, so we
headed back, at which point Nash informed us that they had a
restaurant there. Oh, thanks, that would have been nice to know before
we went walking in the million degree heat. But I guess then we
wouldn’t have found the baptism with the beautiful church, so all is
well. MY blog post would not be complete without me waxing poetic
about food al the time, so here we go.  I ordered a tomato and cheese
Panini, which was not only delicious, but also help hold off my Zupa’s
craving a little bit. Can we please go to Zupas as soon as I get home?
The bus pulled up right as I finished, so we hugged Jimmy and Nash
goodbye and got on the bus that took us away from beautiful Jinja  and
on to stinky Kampala. On the ride home, I met one last really
interesting person (this trip has been full of those): a medical
student from Harvard, who is here in Uganda studying the AIDS virus.
Because I have spent so much time working with HIV+ clients, he was
really interesting to talk to, even though I understood maybe half of
the words he said.  But, according to him, people really don’t die of
AIDs anymore, as long as they get the proper treatment. People who are
HIV+ can live full lives and will often die of natural causes rather
than AIDS. I didn’t know that, so I thought I would share.
       All in all, it was a trip of a lifetime. I talked to many, many
people, lots of them who had tons of raftng experience and the all
said that this trip was some of the best rafting in the entire world.
Plus, I met tons of fascinating people (many of whom are now my
facebook friends in case you want to stalk me. And mum, since I’m sure
you have already stalked me, you can now put stories with these
people). We have a paper that will allow us to go again for half price
and I am seriously tempted, but I don’t think we will because the
whole time we will be trying to recreate the trip, and there is no way
it can ever be as good as it was this time. This trip was perfect.


Thursday, June 2, 2011

May 30

Rafting was AMAZING. I wish I could tell you all about it, but it was
so epic that the email is taking forever to write. I will send it when
it is finished. Me and Savanah and Karen are all working on it
together so that we don't forget a single detail. But for now, suffice
it to say that it was completely amazing and I want to go again.
Yesterday at lunch there were monkeys running around TASO! And I fed
them! I FED THE MONKEYS! They would come right up to me and take food
out of my hand! Because it was so awesome, I accidentally fed half of
my lunch to the monkeys. Hahahaha Worth it thought. I got lots of
fabby pictures.
YEsterday at FHE I met a kid who just got back from Ghana on his
mission. I asked him if he knows Will Farnbach and he totally does! He
got a picture of me and is going to email it to him. Small world.

Love you all!
Stefanie